Friday, February 17, 2017

The Backward Look

Pádraig Murphy Dublin Review of Books


Second-Hand Time, by Svetlana Alexievich, Fitzcarraldo, 704 pp, £14.99, ISBN: 978-1910695111

Second-Hand Time is the fifth book in the cycle “Voices of Utopia” by the Belarusian author Svetlana Alexievich, who won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 2015. She has indicated that it may be the last of the cycle. The previous titles were The Unwomanly Face of War (1985), which chronicles the experience of Soviet women during the Second World War; Last Witnesses (also 1985), which looks at the same period through the eyes of Soviet children; Boys in Zinc (1991), whose subject is Soviet soldiers in Afghanistan; and Chernobyl Prayer (1997), which deals with how the Chernobyl nuclear disaster was experienced.
The cycle is, for good reason, called “artistic-documentary” by its Russian publishers. Alexievich is an avowed disciple, and pupil, of her eminent countryman Ales Adamovich, who wrote in a similar genre. Perhaps the best-known Western practitioner of the same genre was Studs Terkel, cited in the introductory speech at the Nobel ceremony as another example of what, in his case, was called oral history. The term “artistic-documentary” undoubtedly refers to the mix of reportage, in Alexievich’s case including quotations from newspaper reports, and interviews, the artistry consisting in the particular presentation chosen.  Her work can thus be seen as qualifying, more so perhaps than the case of Bob Dylan, for the Nobel Prize in Literature. The prize was awarded to Alexievich, the Nobel committee announced, “for her polyphonic writings, a monument to suffering and courage in our time”.
Asked about where the title Second-Hand Time came from, Alexievich explained
Because all the ideas, all the words, are all from someone else, as it were yesterday’s, used. Nobody knows how it should be, what will help us, and everybody makes use of what they knew once, what somebody once lived through, earlier experience. Unfortunately, for the time being, time is second-hand. But we are beginning to come to ourselves and to realise ourselves in the world. For, of course, nobody wishes to live amid ruins, everyone wishes to construct something out of this wreckage.
The book results from encounters Alexievich has had with her fellow countrymen and women over many decades. She is candid about the fact that she understands her fellow countrymen and women in this regard as coming from all over the former Soviet Union. In the introduction, called “Notes of a Participant”, she sets the scene. “Communism,” she notes,
had a crazy plan, to transform the “old” man, the Old Adam. And this was successful, perhaps the only thing that was achieved. Over more than seventy years a separate human type, homo sovieticus, was produced in the laboratories of Marxism-Leninism. To some, this was a tragic personage, to others, it was a sovok,
a derogatory term derived from Soviet communism, but recalling the everyday word for a dust scoop. “It seems to me,” she says, “that I know this man. He is well-known to me, I have lived side-by-side with him for many years. He is me.”
The book is not in any sense a scientific survey – it is often difficult to determine the time or the exact situation of those whose words are being conveyed; it is even, indeed, unclear whether these are the exact words used. The overall effect, however, is of a travelogue by a well-qualified explorer covering a territory known to a greater or lesser extent to exist, or, as the case may be, to have existed.
The most prevalent emotion expressed by Alexievich’s interlocutors is disillusion. Many of them were passive resisters of the regime in Soviet times – the well-known kitchen dissidents, who sat around in the evening, drinking tea or, more often, vodka, listening to Voice of America or the BBC, and bitching about the conditions of life in what was called “really existing socialism”. They would from time to time point to the ceiling bulb, as a signal of the perennial possibility that the all-powerful security services were listening. Or they would jam the dial of the old-fashioned telephone set as a way of frustrating bugging by the same services. In some – perhaps, in the later stages of the USSR, most – cases, the signal was an oblique attempt to exaggerate the importance of the exchanges, so that there was often nothing more heroic about it. Indeed, in some ways these kitchen palavers were a substitute for, admittedly dangerous, direct public action. And, apart from this, there was a traditional emotional satisfaction to be gained from such conversations, a staple of Russian social life, called “soul-to-soul conversation”. The first disillusion then was occasioned by the failure of the great experiment, which Alexievich calls the seventy-year-old one of creating the new, Marxist-Leninist engineered man. She quotes Shalamov, who, after serving a seventeen-year sentence in Stalin’s gulags, said: “I was a participant in the great lost battle for a really renewed life.” At the latest by the Brezhnev period, called that of “stagnation”, there was, some brave public dissidents apart, nothing but cynical resignation left when such ideals were invoked.
Then came the nineties, and the culmination of Gorbachev’s efforts to open up the system as a way of making it more efficient. The unintended consequence was a growing and unstructured demand for freedom. Alexievich remarks that everyone was happy in the nineties, but that there is no return now to that naivety. “We thought that the choice was made, communism had definitively lost. And everything was just beginning.” She asked everyone she encountered, “What exactly is freedom?” She discovered that the answer depended on the generation to which her interlocutor belonged. Those born in the USSR and those who had not been born then were like people from different planets. The nature of the disillusion, unsurprisingly, was different in each case.
A striking element in the book, which is referenced all through it, is the extent to which the quality and the availability in the shops of what we call salami was a gauge of quality of life for people in the Soviet generation. As Alexievich puts it, giving voice to a common view in most of this generation (this is not her own view), “the man who chooses from a hundred different varieties of salami in the shop is freer than the man who chooses from ten varieties”. (She adds, provocatively and controversially, freedom also means “to be unwhipped, but we can never expect an unwhipped generation; the Russian doesn’t understand freedom, he needs the Cossack and the lash”.) There can be little doubt that the salami question points to a significant reason for the failure of the great experiment in transforming human nature. A striking example of its centrality is provided in the report of Yeltsin’s visit to the US in 1989. He toured a medium-sized grocery shop in Texas. Leon Aron in his Yeltsin biography quotes one of the entourage: “For a long time, on the plane to Miami, he sat motionless, his head in his hands. ‘What have they done to our poor people?’ he said after a long silence.” The accompanying official went on: “On his return to Moscow, Yeltsin would confess the pain he had felt after the Houston excursion: ‘the pain for all of us, for our country so rich, so talented and so exhausted by incessant experiments’.”
This very question of the place of salami in an ideal society will, like a revenant, persist in those who come after the collapse of the Soviet system, as an index of where each situates himself or herself in relation to that vanished past. Most have become totally cynical. One businessman diagnoses “a mental revolution of one hundred and eighty degrees”. There is now no talk of the Gulag or anything like it. “Solzhenitsyn returned from America, and all rushed to him. But he didn’t understand us, whereas we did understand him. A foreigner. He came to Russia, but outside the window it was Chicago.” From being a white-collar worker under the old regime, this interviewee now has his own optical clinic with some hundreds of dependants and the most modern technology, and sends surgeons for work experience to France. But he is distinctly not an altruist. “If someone eats salami that is worse than mine, that is of no interest to me.” A former third secretary of a regional committee of the Party considers: “The USSR was my country, and now I live in what is not my country. I live in a foreign country.” She acknowledges that her father lived in a cruel time. But, quoting her father, she says, “They built a strong country. And they built it right through, and defeated Hitler.” For her, “mountains of salami are not connected to happiness or to glory. This was a great country! They have made of it a country of looters and hucksters … of shopmen and managers.”
Another recurring theme is the place of literature. Literature has, since the beginning of the nineteenth century, been a spiritual resource in Russia, providing moral support for the forces which aimed to overturn autocracy before the Revolution, and, after it, the oppressive Soviet regime. Isaiah Berlin spoke of the vast “bill of indictment which Russian literature has been drafting against Russian life”. The name of Solzhenitsyn figures very prominently here, as do the names of the classic authors of the pre-Revolutionary period. In this instance too there are reminiscences of what used to be. One person interviewed recalls that, in the Soviet period, if someone managed to get hold of – it was, be it noted, not necessarily the case that it was bought, it was often samizdat  – a new book, he could come to a friend’s house at any hour of the day or the night, even at two or three in the morning: he was always a welcome guest. For another, “One could wear one costume for twenty years, and two overcoats were enough for a lifetime, but it was impossible to live without Pushkin or the complete works of Gorky.” For the post-Soviet generation, it was the case that it was permitted to have many books, but not an expensive car or a house. Now the libraries and theatres are now empty.  In the nineties, one interviewee complains, the newspapers gave news of Berezovsky and Potanin (the oligarchs of the time), but not of Bulat Okudzhava and Fazil Iskander, the prominent writers of the late Soviet period. As another has it, under the tsar, the work of Herzen, one of the great exiles of his time – editor of The Bell, which he published in London along with Ogarev  – circulated extensively  in dissident intellectual circles within Russia. Herzen and Ogarev both lived in London. Today, he says, it’s “our new Russians”, the kings of jeans, furniture, chocolate and oil, who live there. An Armenian woman caught up in the pogroms, sometimes of Armenians, sometimes of Azeris, at the end of the Soviet period recalls an artist she knew and admired going up to the bookshelves in his house and, striking the spines, said “All this should be burned! Burned! I no longer believe in books! We thought that the good would triumph – nothing of the sort! We disputed about Dostoyevsky … Yes, these heroes are still with us! Amongst us. Next door.”
The subject of the pogroms, a notable feature of the break-up of the Soviet Union, figures largely in the book. An Armenian woman has lived all her young life in Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. It is a city to which she is devoted. But with the collapse of the USSR it becomes an inferno of inter-ethnic violence. In 1985, Armenians are massacred and expelled from Sumgait, thirty kilometres from Baku. Azeris are expelled by violence from Nagorno Karabakh in 1991. She has married an ethnic Azeri, but there is no future for Armenians in Baku. She escapes to Moscow and has to wait for seven years there before her husband can join her, having to do so against every effort of his family to prevent him joining his wife and daughter. She maintains herself there by washing the metro, cleaning toilets, lugging bricks and bags of cement on building sites. After her husband rejoins her, she works in a restaurant, and he at remodelling homes to European standards, the so-called Euroremont. Neither has the necessary documentation, and accordingly, as she says, no rights. “People like us,” she says, are like sand in the desert. Hundreds of thousands of people fled from their homes: Tajiks, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Georgians, Chechens … They fled to Moscow, to the capital of the USSR, and this is already the capital of another state. And it’s impossible to find anymore our state on the map.”
Other people interviewed by Alexievich bear out this picture. There are the ethnic Russians who flee Tajikistan after anti-Russian violence breaks out. Then there are the Tajiks, who emigrate in their thousands to Russia, principally Moscow, where, according to another interview, they are among some two million “guest workers”, and where, in the pattern of many exiles – the Irish in the US of a hundred years ago, the Irish countrymen in England of sixty years ago – they work on building sites and in other non-skilled and poorly paid jobs. In present-day Russia, they have practically no rights and are preyed on by the police and exploited by the indigenes, to many of whom they are “black arses”. The Armenian woman remarks on another parallel: of looking for accommodation, she says, “Everywhere there are notices: ‘Flat to let to a Slav family’, ‘To let to an Orthodox Russian family. Others are asked not to trouble us.’” Earlier, she remarks, they were all of Soviet nationality, but now they all have a new nationality – “persons of Caucasian nationality” – and they have to be careful where they go, because in certain areas there are skinheads, with swastikas, for whom Russia is for Russians, and who will attack them violently.
Abkhazia, now a splinter state which has broken away from Georgia, is another locus of the appalling ethnic violence which accompanied the break-up. Olga V, a twenty-four-year-old topographer, was interviewed in 1994. She is an ethnic Russian who was born in Abkhazia. She recounts her mother’s stories at the time of how suddenly, as it seemed, Abkhaz and Georgians couldn’t live together any more. Her mother visits neighbours and every time comes back with another horror story. In Gagri, a whole stadium of Georgians has, she has heard, been burnt. Georgians are castrating Abkhaz. Perhaps the most emblematic account is that of how a monkey gets bombed. It is night-time and Georgians are hunting down what they take to be an Abkhaz. They wound him, and he cries out. And then, Abkhaz run into him, and take him for a Georgian. They chase him and shoot at him. And towards morning they all see that this is a monkey. “And they all, both Georgians and Abkhaz, declare a truce and rush to save it. But, if it had been a human, they would have killed it.”
The case of Sergey Fyodorovich Akhromeev, marshal of the Soviet Union, is one of disillusion of a quite special sort. He played a prominent role as chief of the Soviet General Staff in the arms control and disarmament negotiations between the USSR and the US which presaged the end of the Cold War, but resigned in 1988 because he thought Gorbachev was going too far in his concessions to the Americans. He came back nevertheless as military adviser to Gorbachev in 1990. But he joined the putsch against him in August 1991, not because he was part of the plot that originated it – he wasn’t – but apparently because he was profoundly dissatisfied with the path the country was embarked on. With the collapse of the coup, he committed suicide in his Kremlin office, leaving a letter to Gorbachev explaining the decision he had taken. In this letter of August 22nd, 1991, he says:
Why did I come to Moscow of my own initiative – no one summoned me from Sochi – and start to work in the “Committee”? I was after all convinced that this adventure would end in failure, and, having come to Moscow, was once again convinced of this. The fact is that, beginning in 1990, I was as convinced as I am today that our country was heading for disaster. Soon it will be dismembered. I looked for the occasion to proclaim this loudly. I considered that my participation in advancing the work of the “Committee” and the consequent investigation connected with it would give me the opportunity to speak directly about this. It probably sounds unconvincing and naive, but that’s the way it is. There were no selfish motivations in my decision.
Akhromeev’s grave was subsequently plundered and the uniform in which he was buried stolen.
Akhromeev is recalled in various ways by Alexeevich’s interlocutors, but a significant strain emerges from many of them. In this perception, he was a pure product of Stalinist communism, born in 1923 in an obscure Mordovian village, becoming an orphan at an early age. He went to war as a volunteer while a cadet in a naval academy. He advanced with time from cadet to the very top of the military hierarchy. This at a time when the whole international status of the USSR depended on its having a super-power-sized military force. As one of the interviewees puts it, the country was essentially militarised. Seventy per cent of the economy, he says, in one way or another served the army, as well as the best brains, physicists, mathematicians. The ideology also was a military one. “We need a strong and powerful army, see how extensive our territory is! – bordering on half the world.”
Akhromeev’s origin was in deep provincial Russia. There, one of the interviewees remarks, all this talk of the greatness of Russia is so much bullshit. If people travelled, say, fifty kilometres from Moscow, they would see how people there lived. How drink-sodden are the holidays. In the countryside, there are hardly any men left. They have died out. Consciousness is at the level of cattle – men drink themselves to death.  In every family, someone has either served, or is serving a prison sentence. The local police is out of its depth. Only the women work. There may be tanks in Moscow and barricades during the putsch, but no one in the countryside is especially exercised about it. Everyone is more concerned with the Colorado beetle and the cabbage moth. Although not all are communists, they are for the great country, and most are in favour of the putsch. They were afraid of change, because after every change, the muzhik was left as the dumb one. Another, this time speaking in the Putin era, says that capitalism will never catch on in Russia. The fact has nothing to do with Putin or Yeltsin, but with the fact that, beyond Moscow, Russians are slaves. The spirit of capitalism is, in his view, alien to Russia, and has not spread beyond Moscow. The climate isn’t there for it, and neither is the human being. The people are Bolshevik, and he mocks Yegor Gaidar and Anatoly Chubais, who were the apostles of the shock therapy of the nineties, as “the Iron Winnie-the-Pooh” and “the red-haired Chubais”. Because of what he himself went through in the 90s, they should, he says, be with Khodorkovsky in prison. This is a motif that is a constant in Russian culture. Outside a beer stand, a group drinks and debates, as always, about the future of Russia and about communism. If one considers that Russia is either great or is not at all, another couldn’t give a fig for a great country. “I want to live in a small country, like Denmark,” he says. But another, a professor, takes up a perennial Russian theme. “We spend our time,” he says,
talking of suffering. This is our way to knowledge. Western people seem to us naïve, because they don’t suffer like us, for them there is a medicine for every pimple. As for us, we were imprisoned in camps, the earth was crammed with corpses, with bare hands we removed the nuclear fuel in Chernobyl … And now, we sit on the ruins of socialism. Just like after the War. We’re just the same ground-down, beaten people. We have our language, the language of suffering.
The Russian propensity to put a special value on suffering is well exemplified by another interviewee who says, “Russian life has to be evil and worthless, because then the spirit is uplifted, it recognises that it doesn’t belong to this world … The more dirty and bloody, the more room there is for the spirit.”
On the other hand, and here we come back to the different planets on which they are living, he says that he has tried to talk about this to his students. They laughed in his face. “We don’t want to suffer. For us, life is something other than that.” He is non-plussed that they understand nothing of a world which existed such a short time ago, and that they are now living in another one. “A whole civilisation,” he says, “is thrown out on the rubbish heap.”
For all that, there are members of the younger generation who are affected by a different kind of disillusion. Tanya Kishelova is twenty-one in 2010. She is a student in Minsk, the capital of Belarus. Aleksandr Lukashenko, who, in Alexievich’s description, is the laughing stock of Europe, known as “the potato dictator” or “the world pug”, has been president since 1994. Tanya does not consider herself a heroine, and is not ready for heroics. She is concerned for her mother, who has heart problems, all the more so in that her family does not support the liberal ambitions of her circle. That same circle is ambivalent – she brings out the calculations of its members vividly. When it comes to a question of demonstrating for the rights of free assembly and free speech guaranteed in the Belarusian constitution, some say they aren’t revolutionaries, some are concerned for their professional future. Tanya doesn’t explain exactly her reasoning, other than to mention shame that the Ukrainians have had their Maidan and the Georgians their “Rose Revolution”, and that the Belarusian authorities must not be allowed to consider that they can treat their people like so many cattle. So, she finds herself on December 19th, 2010 participating in a large demonstration for these rights in Minsk.
There is a very large number of demonstrators and, as in all large congregations, they feel that their morale is high, and that everyone else is with them. They are also, she says, the first unscared generation, the first one that has not been shot at. Like the battle plan thought out in detail in Staff Headquarters, this high-mindedness does not survive the first contact with the enemy. For enemy there is, much to Tanya’s initial surprise. The authorities have assembled large companies of well-armed security troops. To Tanya, from one perspective it’s like these are two different peoples. From another, they are boys from the country, just like herself. Indeed, she recognises some of them, and can give their names. But they act as they have been trained to do, and proceed brutally to break up and arrest the demonstrators. The harsh reality is brought home by barked commands: “Mug in the snow, bitch! One move and I’ll kill you!”, while the boys among them are subjected to well-aimed kicks between the legs. Arrest – some seven hundred are arrested – and calculated further humiliations do the rest to dispel the illusions with which she started out. “They say,” she says,
that to understand this, it is necessary to read Solzhenitsyn. When I was at school, I borrowed from the library The Gulag Archipelago, but I didn’t take to it then. It was a long and boring book. I read about fifty pages and left it. Something far away, like the Trojan War. Stalin was a worn-out theme. I and my friends had little interest in all this.
Before this happened, she had become a lover of revolution in the abstract, “in the museum”, as she puts it: it was a romantic adventure. It would be interesting, she thought, to find out how a revolution is made. So she and her friends went out onto the streets, in a kind of children’s revolution, as it was called. But their parents remained at home, sat in their kitchens and talked of how their children had gone. They survived. For the parents, it was something frightening, but their children had no Soviet memories. They had read about communists only in books, and had no terror. But Tanya does not believe that the whole system is based on terror. Rather, there is complicity between the executioner and his victim, a complicity which has survived the communist times. There is a tacit bargain, a big deal. People understand it well, but remain silent. In return, they get a decent salary and can buy maybe a used Audi and holiday in Turkey. So much for democracy and human rights. “If the children of people in Soviet times thought that bananas grew in Moscow, look what happens now … one hundred kinds of salami! What other kind of freedom is necessary?” In her view, even today, many would want the Soviet Union back, provided there were loads of salami.
In her person, Tanya incarnates another division in Russia, adverted to often in the book: the country is far from being represented if only Moscow and St Petersburg are taken into consideration. She comes from a Belarusian village, and there, as she says, people live as they always lived. They dig potatoes with spades in their gardens, they crawl on their knees, they brew illicit spirits. Evenings, you don’t meet a single sober man. They drink every day. They vote Lukashenko and regret the ending of the Soviet Union and the unconquerable Soviet army. She has not changed. Met by chance on the Moscow-Minsk train a year later, she reveals that she is now studying in Moscow. This is 2011, and she is attending the Bolotnaya Square protests with her friends. She loves the faces of the people she meets there. Her disillusion is total. The armed forces are taught from the same textbooks as in Stalin’s time. In school, she says, they were told, “Read Bunin and Tolstoy. These books save people.” One could ask, she says, why this wisdom is not transmitted, but the practice of the door-handle in the anus and the plastic bag over the head is.
Among the protesters in Bolotnaya Square in 2011, a hundred thousand in total according to Alexievich, is another girl the author speaks to. She is seventeen, and says she goes to the protests because she has enough of the people being taken for suckers. “Give us back our elections, you skunks,” she says. What does she know of Putin? “I know that he’s a judo adept, that he got the seventh dan in judo. And it appears, that’s all I know.” “I’m not Che Guevara, I’m a coward, but I didn’t miss a single protest meeting. I want to live in a country of which I’m not ashamed.”
Another kind of disillusion figures in the story of the executioner under Stalin. It is told by a man who was a young lieutenant in the Soviet army at the time of perestroika. He gets engaged to a girl, they buy the rings, and all arrangements are ready to proceed. The family of his fiancée lives in a big house on extended grounds, the kind, he says, that was given by the Soviet government to high-level public servants, academics and writers for special services rendered. The fiancée’s grandfather, who had been given the property, is released from hospital with incurable lung cancer. The young man often debated with him: perestroika had begun, it was the springtime of Russian democracy. The grandfather, for his part, was full of reminiscences of the Soviet past: how he had met Gorky and Mayakovsky. The people wanted to love Stalin and celebrate the Ninth of May (WWII Victory Day), he maintained.
One day they are left alone in the house, and amid drinking of vodka and, at the beginning, discussion of the everyday topics of that time – socialism, Bukharin, Lenin’s testament and so on – the old man comes out with the statement that “terror is necessary. Without terror, everything with us falls to pieces.” Subsequently, he reveals to the young lieutenant what the services which brought him the small estate really were. He had been one of the executioners of the Stalinist terror. In his telling, he had been a soldier. “They gave the order, and I went. They tell you, and you go. I killed enemies. Wreckers! There was a document: sentenced to ‘the highest measure of social defence’.” They had worked, as everyone did in those days, to a plan.
You make a man kneel down – a shot at almost point-blank range in the left-hand side of the back of the head … in the area of the left ear … My arm hung at the end of the shift like a whip. The index finger was especially disabled … As at a factory.
Asked how long a man can last under torture, the old man says “the leg of a cocktail chair in the rear passage or an awl in the scrotum – and there’s no more person. Ha-ha, no person. Pure crap! Ha-ha.”
The young man was no longer able to continue the engagement or to visit the house. He remarked how the butcher and his associates can live apparently normal lives subsequently . A dissociation process is at work: that was not me, it was the system. Even Stalin said “not I decide, but the Party”. The old man taught his son: “You think that was me, Stalin. No! Stalin, that was him,” pointing to the portrait on the wall. The logic was impeccable: first there was the victim and the other who butchered him, and in the end, the butcher was also a victim. Alexievich notes that after some days the interviewee telephones and refuses to have the text printed. He declines to explain why. Then she learns that he has emigrated to Canada. She runs across him again after ten years, and he agrees to publication. He says: “I’m glad that I left in time. At one time, everybody loved Russians, and now again they’re afraid of them. Are you not appalled?”
The book is filled with personal stories, almost all of which, as one reviewer has remarked, end in tears, and not only the tears of the tale-teller, but of the reader as well. Tears, of course, of disillusion, as mentioned. But, from a broader perspective, the personal fates described are the results of the tectonic shocks that Russia has been subjected to over the lifetimes of those interviewed. There is Timeryan Zinatov, a Tatar, hero of the defence of Brest in the Second World War, who keeps returning to the Brest fortress to relive his days of glory. After he commits suicide in 1992 by throwing himself under a train, another veteran, Viktor Yakovlevich Yakovlev, in a letter to Pravda, describes how he and another veteran are refused service in a Moscow restaurant at the Leningrad Station because the room is business class. Yakovlev explodes: “They took everything from us, those bastards the Chubaises, the Vekselbergs, the Grefs [Chubais was the architect of economic “shock therapy”; the others mentioned are oligarchs]  … our money, our honour.” “Yeltsin swore at the beginning of his Presidency,” he writes,
that he would lie down on the rails if the standard of living of the people was reduced. This level was not just reduced, it fell, one can say, into an abyss. But Yeltsin did not lie on the rails. The man who lay on the rails in Autumn 1992, in a sign of protest, was the old soldier Timeryan Zinatov.
There are stories of a widow and her young daughter being defrauded of their inherited property under the new dispensation; of the childhood of a now fifty-seven-year-old writer, born in Siberia as the daughter of an exiled Pole, and eventually orphaned there and sent back west to what before the war had been Polish territory, now incorporated into the Soviet Union, to live with an uncle and aunt she had never seen before. The one tale that doesn’t fit this pattern is that of Lena, the woman who corresponds with a long-term prisoner convicted of murder, to marry whom she leaves her husband, and who, after the prisoner’s release, having served eighteen years, just disappears. Rumour has it that she now lives in a monastic settlement with drug addicts and AIDS sufferers, perhaps having taken a vow of silence. The point explicitly made by this tale is that of the great Russian soul: that Russian, as Alexievich puts it, “of whom Dostoyevsky wrote, that he is as wide as the Russian land. Socialism didn’t change him, and capitalism will not.” A friend adds to this picture, saying that Lena “all her life wanted the absolute, and the absolute can exist only in written form, can be realised fully only on paper”. The relevance to a system that set out to create a new man, a homo sovieticus, is clear. Another of those interviewed recalls the perhaps apocryphal story of the sign displayed at the entrance to the Solovetsky prison camp in the north of Russia: “We will drive humanity to happiness with an iron hand.”
Alexievich’s book is a panorama of the human beings who have lived and suffered in Russia over the past eighty or so years. She divides the period into four generations: those of Stalin, Khrushchev, Brezhnev and Gorbachev; she herself belongs to the last. As the account covers also developments among the younger generation in Minsk and Moscow of just a few years ago, it would be fitting to add a fifth, that of Putin. But this is not a public opinion survey, with any of the scientific validity to which such surveys profess to aspire. It is her perspective. It is permissible to ask what this perspective may be. In her Nobel lecture, she mentions that as Flaubert called himself a human pen, she is “a human ear”. No more, perhaps, than in the case of Flaubert, is the suggestion of passivity quite appropriate. But she goes further. Her interest, she says, is in the history of the soul, and she gives the five books she has written the overall title of “a history of utopia”. The Red Empire may be gone, but what she calls the “Red Man”, or homo sovieticus, remains. Her history is that of domestic, indoor socialism. But she also buys into the perennial Russian preoccupation with suffering. “I’m interested in little people,” she says in her lecture, “the little, great people … because suffering expands people.”
Further, and in the same lecture, she avers that Russians are a people of war – they have always been at war or preparing for war. She sees greatness in this: she is, she says, “absolutely convinced that there will never again be young women like the wartime girls of 1941. This was the high point of the ‘Red’ idea, higher than even the Revolution and Lenin. Their Victory still eclipses the Gulag.” She is at one with those of her countrymen, and they are many, who consider that the only time they were really free was during the war: “Suffering is our capital and natural resource.” Russian literature, in her view, is the only literature that tells the story of an experiment carried out on a huge country – the same effort mentioned at Solovetsky to drive humanity with an iron hand to happiness. The results are everywhere in Russia still: as she puts it, despite the end of “socialism”, “‘Red’ people are everywhere”. She acknowledges that she herself is one of them, even if, after Afghanistan, she no longer believes in socialism with a human face. She has more than empathy with those who resent the division that has been brought about by the revolution that followed Gorbachev. The division between those who can buy things and those who can’t was, she says in her Nobel lecture,
the cruellest of the ordeals to follow socialism, because not long ago everyone had been equal. The ‘Red’ man wasn’t able to enter the kingdom of freedom he had dreamed of around his kitchen table. Russia was divvied up without him, and he was left with nothing. Humiliated and robbed. Aggressive and dangerous.
In an interview with Natalya Igrunova in the Russian edition of the book, Alexievich puts her position on the state of Russia against the background of her having lived for a long time in Europe. She sees the challenge faced at the end of what was called “socialism” as that of a people “thrown out of their own history and into a common time”. It’s a way of saying that the seventy-plus history of the Soviet Union produced a kind of institutionalisation which challenges in a special way those who have emerged from it. It was a huge task, she says, and they did not have the free people and the freedom of thinking necessary to adapt to, and adopt, the new dispensation. While humanity is on its way to a just society, it is, she says, a long perspective.
In the meantime, she agrees that what happened with the collapse of the Soviet Union was a great injustice. While everything was still permeated with “socialism”, a few concrete individuals set out to act and divvied up the country, sawed it in pieces, and carried it off. She is sorry for much that was lost, dignity above all. But she does not make the mistake of writing this off to the culture of the West. Russians, she says, should orient themselves to the general intellectual and political space of Europe. While there had been an effort to sell people the idea that possession and glamour were all that mattered, many quickly saw how empty this was. All cried that a new national idea was called for, but the space was filled with rubbish. There is indeed such a debate in Russia, begun by Boris Yeltsin, but it seems to have broken down in the face of irreconcilables: for instance, to what extent, in a multi-ethnic state, can Orthodoxy, which is not the religion of all constituent republics, fill the ideological void?
Igrunova touches on the all-important – in Russia up to 1990, in any case – place of literature in the culture and polity. “Many generations,” she says, “relied on literature, on the Russian classics. Now this experience seems to have ceased to work, it’s disappearing, reading is ceasing to be the main parameter of the cultural level of a person. In your view, can a person who doesn’t read count as a cultured person?” Alexievich’s answer is interesting. She recounts an occasion she personally experienced. A very well-known Moscow cosmologist was giving a party in his own house at which a number of Western colleagues of equal eminence were among the guests. The Russian cosmologist was the life and soul of the party, and sprinkled his comments liberally with examples from the Russian classics, reciting Russian poetry by heart. A Western colleague, of equal eminence, intrigued, asks him if he has specially learned the poetry by heart? “This,” says Alexievich, “is what struck me most of all in the West. The humanistic spectrum is not obligatory. There is professional acuteness, but no breadth.” This is to her an example of the fact that there can be a very varied definition of what constitutes high culture. For all that, she acknowledges that, for her, reading still has paramount value. Asked what of that she has recently read caused her to say, “Oh! This was indispensable,” she says she has read a lot of Olga Sedakova. “In such a dark time as this, we very much need teachers/prophets, and her presence in contemporary life is for me like a lantern.”
Sedakova was a student of Sergei Averintsev, professor at the Institute for History and Cultural Theory at Moscow Lomonosov University. In essence, he was an old-fashioned philologist, subsequently professor of East Slavic Literatures at Vienna University. Sedakova is a poet and translator, and, very much under Averintsev’s influence, a cultural commentator in the mode of TS Eliot (whose “Ash Wednesday” she has translated). Both Averintsev and Sedakova were cultivated by Pope John Paul II, who was very active in trying to bring about a rapprochement between Catholicism and Russian Orthodoxy. Averintsev was appointed to the Papal Academy of Social Sciences by John Paul II; Sedakova was conferred by him with the inaugural Vladimir Solovyev Prize. Both Averintsev and Sedakova were advocates of reconciliation between the Western Christian – Catholic and Protestant – and Orthodox traditions. Alexievich also studied in the philological faculty at Moscow State University under Averintsev. She describes him as the idol of the time – all enlightened Moscow crowded into his lectures. Sedakova explains the attraction he exercised on students such as herself as consisting in keeping alive, at a time when the official culture was at its most extremely obscurantist, the sense that there existed an overarching European culture which went back to classical and Old Testament roots. His erudition, in her description, was able to encompass in one overview Athens and Jerusalem, Edgar Alan Poe and Clemens von Brentano. In 1990, Sedakova wrote of the problem of tradition in the then newly “liberated” Russia. The problem, in her view, is that referred to by Alexievich: an old tradition has been betrayed by the wilful effort to create a new man. This effort has now been definitively discredited, but a special effort is needed to replace it. For Sedakova, this can only be done by Orthodoxy, with the openness to the Western tradition that she and Averintsev have advocated.
There can be little doubt that Alexievich shares Sedakova’s view that a new dispensation is called for to replace the discredited one that resulted in homo sovieticus. She is not on record as to how Orthodoxy might contribute to this, but her expressed admiration for Sedakova suggests sympathy, at least, for this view, as does her statement in the Igrukova interview, inspired by her investigation of the Chernobyl experience, that: “We more and more often have to think about the fact that we do not dispose of power over this world, as we had thought, that there are other laws, that there are certain other forces.” What on the other hand is striking in Averintsev and Sedakova – in the latter case explicitly – is that the focus is entirely on the Christian world, East and West. Sedakova excludes Islam, a move not without consequences in a state such as the Russian Federation.
What of the future? Alexievich in her interview refers again to the Russian self-understanding that they are a people of misfortune and suffering, “deep and long-standing Russian culture”. “We don’t have the culture of happiness, a joyful life. A culture of love.” The next book I’ll write, she says, will be about love, tales of love of hundreds of people . But she immediately expresses doubt. “We didn’t have that kind of life. How could we undertake such a literature, such a cinema? Suffering, struggle and war, this is the experience of our life and of our art.” At the end, she confirms: the cycle of five books, a history of utopia, is at an end.
1/2/2017

Pádraig Murphy is a retired official of Ireland’s Department of Foreign Affairs. He served as ambassador to the then Soviet Union from 1981 to 1985

Tuesday, February 07, 2017


ANTHONY BOURDAIN’S MOVEABLE FEAST

Guided by a lusty appetite for indigenous culture and cuisine, the swaggering chef has become a travelling statesman.
By Patrick Radden Keefe The New Yorker

Bourdain, in Hanoi. He says, “I travel around the world, eat a lot of shit, and basically do whatever the fuck I want.”

Photographs by William Mebane for The New Yorker
When the President of the United States travels outside the country, he brings his own car with him. Moments after Air Force One landed at the Hanoi airport last May, President Barack Obama ducked into an eighteen-foot, armor-plated limousine—a bomb shelter masquerading as a Cadillac—that was equipped with a secure link to the Pentagon and with emergency supplies of blood, and was known as the Beast. Hanoi’s broad avenues are crowded with honking cars, storefront venders, street peddlers, and some five million scooters and motorbikes, which rush in and out of the intersections like floodwaters. It was Obama’s first trip to Vietnam, but he encountered this pageant mostly through a five-inch pane of bulletproof glass. He might as well have watched it on TV.

Obama was scheduled to meet with President Trần Đại Quang, and with the new head of Vietnam’s national assembly. On his second night in Hanoi, however, he kept an unusual appointment: dinner with Anthony Bourdain, the peripatetic chef turned writer who hosts the Emmy-winning travel show “Parts Unknown,” on CNN. Over the past fifteen years, Bourdain has hosted increasingly sophisticated iterations of the same program. Initially, it was called “A Cook’s Tour,” and aired on the Food Network. After shifting to the Travel Channel, it was renamed “Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations,” and it ran for nine seasons before moving to CNN, in 2013. All told, Bourdain has travelled to nearly a hundred countries and has filmed two hundred and forty-eight episodes, each a distinct exploration of the food and culture of a place. The secret ingredient of the show is the when-in-Rome avidity with which Bourdain partakes of indigenous custom and cuisine, whether he is pounding vodka before plunging into a frozen river outside St. Petersburg or spearing a fatted swine as the guest of honor at a jungle longhouse in Borneo. Like a great white shark, Bourdain tends to be photographed with his jaws wide open, on the verge of sinking his teeth into some tremulous delicacy. In Bourdain’s recollection, his original pitch for the series was, roughly, “I travel around the world, eat a lot of shit, and basically do whatever the fuck I want.” The formula has proved improbably successful.

People often ask Bourdain’s producers if they can tag along on an escapade. On a recent visit to Madagascar, he was accompanied by the film director Darren Aronofsky. (A fan of the show, Aronofsky proposed to Bourdain that they go somewhere together. “I kind of jokingly said Madagascar, just because it’s the farthest possible place,” he told me. “And Tony said, ‘How’s November?’ ”) A ride-along with Bourdain promises the sidekick an experience that, in this era of homogenized tourism, is all too rare: communion with a foreign culture so unmitigated that it feels practically intravenous. Parachuted into any far-flung corner of the planet, Bourdain ferrets out the restaurant, known only to discerning locals, where the grilled sardines or the pisco sours are divine. Often, he insinuates himself into a private home where the meal is even better. He is a lively dining companion: a lusty eater and a quicksilver conversationalist. “He’s got that incredibly beautiful style when he talks that ranges from erudite to brilliantly slangy,” his friend Nigella Lawson observed. Bourdain is a font of unvarnished opinion, but he also listens intently, and the word he uses perhaps more than any other is “interesting,” which he pronounces with four syllables and only one “t”: in-ner-ess-ting.

Before becoming famous, Bourdain spent more than two decades as a professional cook. In 2000, while working as the executive chef at Les Halles, a boisterous brasserie on Park Avenue South, he published a ribald memoir, “Kitchen Confidential.” It became a best-seller, heralding a new national fascination with the grubby secrets and “Upstairs Downstairs” drama of the hospitality industry. Bourdain, having established himself as a brash truth-teller, got into public spats with more famous figures; he once laid into Alice Waters for her pious hatred of junk food, saying that she reminded him of the Khmer Rouge. People who do not watch Bourdain’s show still tend to think of him as a savagely honest loudmouthed New York chef. But over the years he has transformed himself into a well-heeled nomad who wanders the planet meeting fascinating people and eating delicious food. He freely admits that his career is, for many people, a fantasy profession. A few years ago, in the voice-over to a sun-dappled episode in Sardinia, he asked, “What do you do after your dreams come true?” Bourdain would be easy to hate, in other words, if he weren’t so easy to like. “For a long time, Tony thought he was going to have nothing,” his publisher, Dan Halpern, told me. “He can’t believe his luck. He always seems happy that he actually is Anthony Bourdain.”

The White House had suggested the meeting in Vietnam. Of all the countries Bourdain has explored, it is perhaps his favorite; he has been there half a dozen times. He fell for Hanoi long before he actually travelled there, when he read Graham Greene’s 1955 novel, “The Quiet American,” and the city has retained a thick atmosphere of colonial decay—dingy villas, lugubrious banyan trees, monsoon clouds, and afternoon cocktails—that Bourdain savors without apology. Several years ago, he seriously considered moving there.

Bourdain believes that the age of the fifteen-course tasting menu “is over.” He is an evangelist for street food, and Hanoi excels at open-air cooking. It can seem as if half the population were sitting around sidewalk cookfires, hunched over steaming bowls of phở. As a White House advance team planned the logistics for Obama’s visit, an advance team from Zero Point Zero, the company that produces the show, scoured the city for the perfect place to eat. They selected Bún chả Hương Liên, a narrow establishment across from a karaoke joint on a busy street in the Old Quarter. The restaurant’s specialty is bún chả: springy white noodles, smoky sausage, and charred pork belly served in a sweet and pungent broth.

At the appointed hour, Obama exited the Beast and walked into the restaurant behind a pair of Secret Service agents, who cleared a path for him, like linemen blocking for a running back. In a rear dining room on the second floor, Bourdain was waiting at a stainless-steel table, surrounded by other diners, who had been coached to ignore the cameras and Obama, and to focus on their bún chả. Like many restaurants in Vietnam, the facility was casual in the extreme: diners and servers alike swept discarded refuse onto the floor, and the tiles had acquired a grimy sheen that squeaked beneath your feet. Obama was wearing a white button-down, open at the collar, and he greeted Bourdain, took a seat on a plastic stool, and happily accepted a bottle of Vietnamese beer.

“How often do you get to sneak out for a beer?” Bourdain asked.

“I don’t get to sneak out, period,” Obama replied. He occasionally took the First Lady to a restaurant, he said, but “part of enjoying a restaurant is sitting with other patrons and enjoying the atmosphere, and too often we end up getting shunted into one of those private rooms.”

As a young waitress in a gray polo shirt set down bowls of broth, a plate of greens, and a platter of shuddering noodles, Bourdain fished chopsticks from a plastic container on the table. Obama, surveying the constituent parts of the meal, evinced trepidation. He said, “All right, you’re gonna have to—”

“I’ll walk you through it,” Bourdain assured him, advising him to grab a clump of noodles with chopsticks and dunk them into the broth.

“I’m just gonna do what you do,” Obama said.

“Dip and stir,” Bourdain counselled. “And get ready for the awesomeness.”

Eying a large sausage that was floating in the broth, Obama asked, “Is it generally appropriate to just pop one of these whole suckers in your mouth, or do you think you should be a little more—”

“Slurping is totally acceptable in this part of the world,” Bourdain declared.

Obama took a bite and let out a low murmur. “That’s good stuff” he said, and the two of them—lanky, conspicuously cool guys in late middle age—slurped away as three cameras, which Bourdain had once likened to “drunken hummingbirds,” hovered around them. Noting the unaffected rusticity of the scene, Obama was reminded of a memorable meal that he had eaten as a child, in the mountains outside Jakarta. “You’d have these roadside restaurants overlooking the tea fields,” he recalled. “There’d be a river running through the restaurant itself, and there’d be these fish, these carp, that would be running through. You’d pick the fish. They’d grab it for you and fry it up, and the skin would be real crispy. They just served it with a bed of rice.” Obama was singing Bourdain’s song: earthy, fresh, free of pretense. “It was the simplest meal possible, and nothing tasted so good.”

But the world is getting smaller, Obama said. “The surprises, the serendipity of travel, where you see something and it’s off the beaten track, there aren’t that many places like that left.” He added, wistfully, “I don’t know if that place will still be there when my daughters are ready to travel. But I hope it is.” The next day, Bourdain posted a photograph of the meeting online. “Total cost of Bun cha dinner with the President: $6.00,” he tweeted. “I picked up the check.”

“Three years I haven’t had a cigarette, and I just started again,” Bourdain said when I met him shortly afterward, at the bar of the Metropole Hotel, where he was staying. He cocked an eyebrow: “Obama made me do it.” Bourdain, who is sixty, is imposingly tall—six feet four—and impossibly lean, with a monumental head, a caramel tan, and carefully groomed gray hair. He once described his body as “gristly, tendony,” as if it were an inferior cut of beef, and a recent devotion to Brazilian jujitsu has left his limbs and his torso laced with ropy muscles. With his Sex Pistols T-shirt and his sensualist credo, there is something of the aging rocker about him. But if you spend any time with Bourdain you realize that he is controlled to the point of neurosis: clean, organized, disciplined, courteous, systematic. He is Apollo in drag as Dionysus.

“He has his mise en place,” his friend the chef Éric Ripert told me, noting that Bourdain’s punctiliousness is a reflection not only of his personality and his culinary training but also of necessity: if he weren’t so structured, he could never stay on top of his proliferating commitments. In addition to producing and starring in “Parts Unknown,” he selects the locations, writes the voice-overs, and works closely with the cinematographers and the music supervisors. When he is not on camera, he is writing: essays, cookbooks, graphic novels about a homicidal sushi chef, screenplays. (David Simon recruited him to write the restaurant scenes in “Treme.”) Or he is hosting other TV shows, such as “The Taste,” a reality competition that ran for two years on ABC. Last fall, during a hiatus from filming, he launched a fifteen-city standup tour. Ripert suggested to me that Bourdain may be driven, in part, by a fear of what he might get up to if he ever stopped working. “I’m a guy who needs a lot of projects,” Bourdain acknowledged. “I would probably have been happy as an air-traffic controller.”

As he sipped a beer and picked at a platter of delicate spring rolls, he was still fidgeting with exhilaration from the encounter with Obama. “I believe what’s important to him is this notion that otherness is not bad, that Americans should aspire to walk in other people’s shoes,” he reflected. This idea resonates strongly with Bourdain, and, although he insists his show is a selfish epicurean enterprise, Obama’s ethic could be the governing thesis of “Parts Unknown.” In the opening moments of an episode set in Myanmar, Bourdain observes, “Chances are you haven’t been to this place. Chances are this is a place you’ve never seen.”

From the moment Bourdain conceives of an episode, he obsesses over the soundtrack, and for the sequence with Obama he wanted to include the James Brown song “The Boss.” When the producers cannot afford to license a song, they often commission music that evokes the original. For a “Big Lebowski” homage in a Tehran episode, they arranged the recording of a facsimile, in Farsi, of Dylan’s “The Man in Me.” But Bourdain wanted the original James Brown track, no matter how much it cost. “I don’t know who’s paying for it,” he said. “But somebody’s fucking paying for it.” He sang the chorus to himself—“I paid the cost to be the boss”—and remarked that one price of leadership, for Obama, had been a severe constraint on the very wanderlust that Bourdain personifies. “Even drinking a beer for him is a big thing,” he marvelled. “He’s got to clear it.” Before he said goodbye to Obama, Bourdain told me, he had underlined this contrast. “I said, ‘Right after this, Mr. President, I’m getting on a scooter and I’m going to disappear into the flow of thousands of people.’ He got this look on his face and said, ‘That must be nice.’ ”

Tom Vitale, the episode’s director, who is in his mid-thirties and has an air of harried intensity, stopped by to check with Bourdain about a shoot that was planned for later that evening. It generally takes Bourdain about a week of frantic work on location to film each episode. He has a small crew—two producers and a few cameramen—who recruit local fixers and grips. His team often shoots between sixty and eighty hours of footage in order to make an hour-long episode. Vitale, like others on the crew, has worked with Bourdain for years. When I asked him what his interactions with the White House had been like, he said, with bewilderment, “I’m shocked we all passed the background check.”

Bourdain was eager to shoot at a bia-hơi joint, a popular Hanoi establishment specializing in chilled draft beer. “We’re hoping for beer?” he asked.

“We’re hoping for beer,” Vitale confirmed. They had already scouted a place. “But, if the energy there is only fifty per cent, maybe not.”

Bourdain agreed. “We don’t want to manufacture a scene,” he said. He makes a fetish of authenticity, and disdains many conventions of food and travel programming. “We don’t do retakes,” he said. “We don’t do ‘hello’ scenes or ‘goodbye, thank you very much’ scenes. I’d rather miss the shot than have a bogus shot.” When he meets someone at a roadside café, he wears a lavalier microphone, which picks up the sort of ambient noise—blaring car horns, shrieking cicadas—that sound designers normally filter out. “We want you to know what a place sounds like, not just what it looks like,” Jared Andrukanis, one of Bourdain’s producers, told me. “The guys who mix the show hate it. They hate it, but I think they love it.”

After filming with President Obama, Bourdain said, “I’m going to disappear into the flow of thousands of people.”

Bourdain is exceptionally close to his crew members, in part because they are steady companions in a life that is otherwise transient. “I change location every two weeks,” he told me. “I’m not a cook, nor am I a journalist. The kind of care and feeding required of friends, I’m frankly incapable of. I’m not there. I’m not going to remember your birthday. I’m not going to be there for the important moments in your life. We are not going to reliably hang out, no matter how I feel about you. For fifteen years, more or less, I’ve been travelling two hundred days a year. I make very good friends a week at a time.”

Until he was forty-four, Bourdain saw very little of the world. He grew up in Leonia, New Jersey, not far from the George Washington Bridge. His father, Pierre, an executive at Columbia Records, was reserved, and given to reading silently on the couch for long stretches, but he had adventurous taste in food and movies. Tony recalls travelling into New York City with his father during the seventies to try sushi, which at the time seemed impossibly exotic.

The only experience of real travel that Bourdain had as a child was two trips to France. When he was ten, his parents took him and his younger brother, Chris, on a summer vacation to Normandy, where French relatives of his father had a home in a chilly seaside village. Tony had what he has since described as a Proustian encounter with a huge oyster, eating it freshly plucked from the sea. (“Tony likes to play up the oyster episode,” Chris, who is now a banker, told me. “I have no idea if that’s fact or fiction.”) The brothers played in old Nazi blockhouses on the beach, and spent hours reading “Tintin” books—savoring tales of the roving boy reporter and poring over Hergé’s minutely rendered illustrations of Shanghai, Cairo, the Andes. The stories, Bourdain recalls, “took me places I was quite sure I would never go.”

His mother, Gladys, a copy editor at the Times, was formidable and judgmental, and often clashed with her son. In high school, Bourdain fell in love with an older girl, Nancy Putkoski, who ran with a druggie crowd, and he started dabbling in illicit substances himself. At one point, Gladys told her son, “I love you dearly, but, you know, I don’t like you very much at present.” In 1973, Bourdain finished high school a year early and followed Putkoski to Vassar. But he dropped out after two years and enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, New York.

It was not his first experience in the kitchen: the summer after finishing high school, he had been a dishwasher at the Flagship, a flounder-and-fried-clams restaurant in Provincetown. In “Kitchen Confidential,” he recounts a defining moment, during a wedding party at the Flagship, when he witnessed the bride sneak outside for an impromptu assignation with the chef. The punch line: “I knew then, dear reader, for the first time: I wanted to be a chef.”

The story captures Bourdain’s conception of the cook’s vocation as both seductively carnal and swaggeringly transgressive. One of his favorite movies is “The Warriors,” the cult 1979 film about street gangs in New York, and it was the outlaw machismo of the kitchen that attracted him. For a time, he walked around with a set of nunchucks in a holster strapped to his leg, like a six-shooter; he often posed for photographs wearing chef’s whites and clutching the kind of long, curved knife you might use to disembowel a Gorgon. (The cover of “Kitchen Confidential” showed Bourdain with two ornamental swords tucked into his apron strings.) Long before he was the kind of international celebrity who gets chased by fans through the airport in Singapore, Bourdain knew how to arrange his grasshopper limbs into a good pose, and from the beginning he had a talent for badassery.

After graduating from the Culinary Institute, in 1978, he moved with Putkoski into a rent-stabilized apartment on Riverside Drive. They married in 1985. She had various jobs, and Bourdain found work at the Rainbow Room, in Rockefeller Center. When I asked about the marriage, which ended in 2005, he likened it to the Gus Van Sant film “Drugstore Cowboy,” in which Matt Dillon and Kelly Lynch play drug addicts who rob pharmacies in order to support their habit. “That kind of love and codependency and sense of adventure—we were criminals together,” he said. “A lot of our life was built around that, and happily so.” When Bourdain tells stories about the “seriously knuckleheaded shit” he did while using narcotics—being pulled over by the cops with two hundred hits of blotter acid in the car, being stalked by the Drug Enforcement Administration while trying to retrieve a “letter from Panama” at the post office—he vaguely alludes to “another person” who was by his side. He is careful not to mention Putkoski by name. Aside from the drugs, they lived a relatively quiet domestic life. In the evenings, they ordered takeout and watched “The Simpsons.” Every few years, after they saved up some money, Tony and Nancy went on vacation to the Caribbean. Otherwise, they did not travel.

But Bourdain did travel around New York, as a journeyman chef. At the Rainbow Room, he worked the buffet table, and he was a sous-chef at W.P.A., in SoHo. He worked at Chuck Howard’s, in the theatre district; at Nikki and Kelly, on the Upper West Side; at Gianni’s, a tourist trap at the South Street Seaport; at the Supper Club, a nightspot in midtown where the emphasis was not the food. Eventually, he acquired a crew of associates who migrated with him from one restaurant to the next. His friend Joel Rose, a writer who has known Bourdain since the eighties, told me, “He was a fixer. Anytime a restaurant was in trouble, he came in and saved the day. He wasn’t a great chef, but he was organized. He would stop the bleeding.”

In 1998, he answered an ad in the Times and got the executive-chef job at Les Halles. It was an ideal fit for Bourdain: an unpretentious brasserie with its own butcher, who worked next to the bar, behind a counter stacked with steak, veal, and sausages. “Kitchen Confidential,” which was excerpted in this magazine, was inspired by “Down and Out in Paris and London,” in which George Orwell describes chefs as “the most workmanlike class, and the least servile.” Karen Rinaldi, the editor who acquired the book, for Bloomsbury, told me that she underestimated the impact it would have. “It was a flyer,” she said—the profane musings of a guy who broiled steaks for a living. “But a lot of the books that end up shifting the culture are flyers.”

“Kitchen Confidential” was filled with admonitions: Bourdain assailed Sunday brunch (“a dumping ground for the odd bits left over from Friday and Saturday”) and advised against ordering fish on Mondays, because it is typically “four to five days old.” The book was marketed as a dispatch from the scullery, the type of tell-all that might be more interesting to the naïve restaurant-goer than to the battle-seasoned cook. (“I won’t eat in a restaurant with filthy bathrooms,” Bourdain warned. “They let you see the bathrooms. If the restaurant can’t be bothered to replace the puck in the urinal or keep the toilets and floors clean, then just imagine what their refrigeration and work spaces look like.”) But, for Bourdain, the most important audience was his peers. The final line of the acknowledgments page was “Cooks rule,” and he hoped, desperately, that other professionals would see the book in the spirit he had intended, and pass gravy-stained copies around the kitchen.

Bourdain did not quit his job at Les Halles when the book became a success. “I was careful to modulate my hopes, because I lived in a business where everybody was a writer or an actor,” he recalls. For decades, he’d seen colleagues come into work crowing about their latest callback, only to see their grand designs amount to nothing. “So at no point was it ‘So long, suckers.’ ” His confederates at Les Halles were amused, if mystified, by his blossoming career as a writer, and the owners were accommodating about the book tour. When Bourdain started travelling to promote the book, something curious happened. He’d amble into a restaurant alone and order a drink at the bar. Out of nowhere, a plate of amuse-bouches would appear, compliments of the house. It marked an affirmation for Bourdain: chefs were reading the book, and they liked it. But it also signified a profound inversion. He had spent the first half of his life preparing food to feed others. He would spend the second half getting fed.

Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong is a bright, cacophonous restaurant on Thirty-second Street, a hipster riff on a Korean steak house. One frigid evening last February, I arrived, on time, to discover Bourdain waiting for me, already halfway through a beer. He is more than punctual: he arrives precisely fifteen minutes early to every appointment. “It comes from his kitchen days,” Tom Vitale, the director, told me. “If he doesn’t show, we know something’s wrong.” Bourdain used the word “pathological” to describe his fixation with being on time. “I judge other people on it,” he admitted. “Today, you’re just late, but eventually you will betray me.”

I had dined at Baekjeong once before, but I was about to discover that eating at a restaurant with Bourdain is a markedly different experience. Throughout the meal, the head chef—Deuki Hong, an amiable, floppy-haired twenty-seven-year-old—personally presented each dish. One conspicuous hazard of being Anthony Bourdain is that everywhere he goes, from a Michelin-starred temple to a peasant hut on the tundra, he is mercilessly inundated with food. Because he is loath to spurn courtesy of any kind, he often ends up eating much more than he might like to. Bourdain calls this getting “food fucked.” Now that he trains nearly every day in jujitsu, he tries to eat and drink more selectively. “Off camera, I don’t go around getting drunk at night,” he said; during the meals we shared when he wasn’t shooting, Bourdain didn’t so much gorge himself as graze. A big bowl of pasta is hard to enjoy if you know it will render you sluggish the next morning, when a crazy-eyed mixed martial artist is trying to ease you into a choke hold. Since he started doing jujitsu, three years ago, Bourdain has lost thirty-five pounds. (He now weighs a hundred and seventy-five pounds.) But he adores the food at Baekjeong, and was ready to indulge himself. After Hong arranged silky thin slivers of marinated beef tongue on a circular grill that was embedded in the table between us, Bourdain waited until they had just browned, then reached for one with chopsticks and encouraged me to do the same. We savored the rich, woodsy taste of the meat. Then Bourdain poured two shots of soju, the Korean rice liquor, and said, “That is good, huh?”


It is somewhat ironic that Bourdain has emerged as an ambassador for the culinary profession, given that, by his own admission, he was never an inspired chef. Alan Richman, the restaurant critic at GQ, who is a champion of white-tablecloth haute cuisine, told me that Les Halles “was not a particularly good restaurant when he was cooking there, and it got worse when he stopped.” This seemed a little unfair: I frequented Les Halles before it closed, in 2016, and until the end it was rowdy and reliable, with a good frisée salad and a sturdy cassoulet. But it was never a standout restaurant. Bourdain used to genuflect like a fanboy before innovative chefs such as Éric Ripert, of Le Bernardin. On page 5 of “Kitchen Confidential,” he joked that Ripert, whom he had never met, “won’t be calling me for ideas on today’s fish special.” After the book came out, Bourdain was in the kitchen at Les Halles one day, when he got a phone call. It was Ripert, inviting him to lunch. Today, they are best friends, and Ripert often plays the straight man to Bourdain on “Parts Unknown.” A recent episode in Chengdu, China, consisted largely of shots of a flushed and sweaty Ripert being subjected to one lethally spicy dish after another while Bourdain discoursed on the “mouth-numbing” properties of Sichuan pepper and took jocular satisfaction in his friend’s discomfort.

Ripert said of Bourdain, “I have cooked side by side with him. He has the speed. He has the precision. He has the skill. He has the flavor. The food tastes good.” He hesitated. “Creativity-wise . . . I don’t know.” Over the years, Bourdain has regularly been approached about opening his own restaurant, and these offers might have yielded him a fortune. But he has always declined, mindful, perhaps, that his renown as a bard of the kitchen might be difficult to equal in the kitchen itself.

Even so, everywhere Bourdain goes young cooks greet him as “Chef.” When I asked him if that felt strange, he bristled slightly. “Look, I put in my time, so I’m not uncomfortable with it,” he said. “What makes me uncomfortable is when an actual working chef who cooks better than I’ve ever cooked in my life calls me Chef.” As if on cue, Deuki Hong—who, before opening Baekjeong, worked under Jean-Georges Vongerichten and David Chang—appeared with a platter of steamed sweet potatoes, and addressed Bourdain as Chef.

Halfway through the meal, we were joined by Stephen Werther, a bespectacled entrepreneur who is Bourdain’s partner in a new venture: a Manhattan market modelled on Singapore’s hawker centers, or open-air food courts. It is scheduled to open, sometime in the next few years, at Pier 57, a cavernous former shipping terminal on the West Side. If Bourdain’s show offers a vicarious taste of an intrepid culinary expedition, the market will provide an ersatz consumer experience of his show. The best street-food venders will be recruited from around the world and awarded visas—assuming that the United States is still issuing them—allowing New Yorkers to sample their octopus tostadas and their yakitori chicken hearts. Bourdain Market, as it will be known, is a preposterously ambitious venture; it will be three times the size of the original Eataly—Mario Batali’s super-emporium of Italian food in the Flatiron district. Werther was accompanied by Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch, a married couple who run Roman and Williams, a design firm that creates seductive contemporary spaces, such as the Ace Hotel in New York. They had agreed to work on the market. Their background is in Hollywood set design, an ideal match for Bourdain’s sensibility.

“Imagine a post-apocalyptic Grand Central Terminal, if it had been invaded by China,” Bourdain said.

“But underwater,” Standefer joked.

Bourdain elaborated that the market should bring to mind “Blade Runner”—high-end retail as grungy, polyglot dystopia. When Bourdain was growing up, his father used to rent a 16-mm. projector and show movies by Stanley Kubrick and Mel Brooks. “I’ve never met anyone who has this catalogue of films in his head,” one of his longtime cameramen, Zach Zamboni, told me. A Rome episode of “No Reservations” made black-and-white allusion to Fellini. The Buenos Aires episode on “Parts Unknown” was a nod to “Happy Together,” by Wong Kar-wai. Most viewers are unlikely to catch such references, but for Bourdain that is not the point. “When other cinematographers like it, that feels good,” he said. “It’s just like cooking—when the other cooks say, ‘Nice plate.’ It’s kind of not about the customers.” The producer Lydia Tenaglia, who, along with her husband, Chris Collins, recruited Bourdain to television for “A Cook’s Tour,” and now runs Zero Point Zero, told me that part of the reason Bourdain’s experience is so often refracted through films is that, until middle age, he had seen so little of the world. “Books and films, that was what he knew—what he had read in Graham Greene, what he had seen in ‘Apocalypse Now.’ ”

Singapore’s orderly hawker markets combine the delights of roadside gastronomy with an approach to public-health regulation that could pass muster in post-Bloomberg New York. “They cracked the code without losing this amazing culture,” Bourdain said. Some of his partners in the market will be established restaurateurs, like April Bloomfield, the Michelin-starred chef of the Spotted Pig and the Breslin. But Bourdain also wants the market to have an old-fashioned butcher shop, with “guys in bloody aprons breaking down sections of meat,” and Asian street food that will attract not just the Eater-reading cognoscenti but also displaced Asians in New York who yearn for a genuine taste of home. “If the younger Korean hipsters and their grandparents like us, we’re gonna be O.K.,” he said.

I wondered aloud if grilled heart could turn a profit in New York. Wouldn’t the adventurous offerings be loss leaders, while more conventional attractions, like an oyster bar, paid the rent?

Now that Bourdain trains nearly every day in jujitsu, he tries to eat and drink more selectively. “Off camera, I don’t go around getting drunk at night,” he said.
Now that Bourdain trains nearly every day in jujitsu, he tries to eat and drink more selectively. “Off camera, I don’t go around getting drunk at night,” he said.
“I’m an optimist,” Bourdain replied. Tastes evolve, he insisted. Exposure to foreign cultures makes inhibitions fall away. “I grew up watching ‘Barney Miller,’ and it was Asian jokes all day long. They made fun of Asian food. It smelled like garbage. That’s not funny anymore.” With his chopsticks, he gestured toward a bowl of kimchi between us. “Americans want kimchi. They want it on their hamburgers. It’s like when Americans started eating sushi—a huge tectonic shift.” The new frontier for American tastes is fermentation, Bourdain continued. “That funk. That corruption of the flesh. That’s exactly the flavor zone that we’re all moving toward.”

“This is the secret of the food world,” Stephen Werther said. “Rot is delicious. No one will ever say that to your face. Aged steaks. ‘Age’ is code for ‘rot.’ ”

“Cured,” Bourdain said, warming to the riff.

“Alcohol is the by-product of yeast,” Stephen Alesch chimed in. “It’s the piss of yeast.”

“Basically, what we’re saying is that filth is good,” Bourdain concluded.

Deuki Hong reappeared with a plate of marbled rib eye. “Korean restaurants don’t usually dry-age,” he said. “But we’re trying dry-aged. This is, like, thirty-eight days.”

“You see? The rot!” Werther exclaimed. “What happens after thirty-eight days?”

“Good things,” Bourdain said.

“For Valentine’s Day once, we made a stew by cooking this big beef heart,” Alesch said.

“That’s very romantic,” Werther observed.

“It was,” Alesch said. “We ate it for, like, four days.”

We left the restaurant, with Hong in tow, and had a round of soju bombs at an unmarked bar on the third floor of a nearby office building. Our little party then proceeded to a Korean night club on Forty-first Street. A vast warren of karaoke rooms surrounded a central dance floor, where flickering lasers illuminated a crowd that was young, prosperous-looking, and entirely Asian. In a V.I.P. room overlooking the dance floor, Bourdain quizzed one of the owners, Bobby Kwak, a young Korean-American man in a black T-shirt, about the clientele. “If they go to a downtown club like Marquee, they stick out like a sore thumb,” Kwak explained, shouting over thudding techno. He pointed at Bourdain. “You’re the minority here.”

Bourdain said that this was exactly the kind of crowd he wanted to attract to the market. He had no interest in catering to “the gringos.” Instead, he wanted to teach the gringos that they could love a place that was legitimate enough to be popular with a crowd like this.

“It’s going to be hard,” Kwak said. “You’ll get the Asian-Americans . . . ”

Bourdain insisted that he also wanted the young Koreans who had grown up in Seoul, not Fort Lee. It was nearly 2 a.m. “So, after they get out of here, where do they go?” Bourdain asked.

Kwak laughed, and shouted, “They go right to where you just ate.”

In the summer of 2006, Bourdain flew to Lebanon to make a “No Reservations” episode about Beirut. He planned to focus on the city’s cosmopolitan night life, nibbling kibbe, drinking arrack, and taking in the vibe at beachside night clubs. In the episode, he explains in a voice-over, “Everyone’s been through here—the Greeks, the Romans, the Phoenicians. So I knew this was going to be a great place to eat.” But, while Bourdain was strolling down the street one day, a convoy of vehicles rolled by, flying the yellow flags of Hezbollah. They were celebrating an ambush in which Hezbollah forces had crossed into Israel, killing three Israeli soldiers and capturing two others. The next day, Israel launched missiles at Beirut, killing dozens of civilians. Bourdain and his crew ended up at the Royal Hotel, on a hilltop not far from the U.S. Embassy, playing cards while they waited to be evacuated. In a surreal accident of geography, they could watch the war unfold from the relative safety of the hotel pool.

All travel requires a degree of improvisation, and Bourdain and his cameramen are well versed in reconceiving a show on the fly. Once, when he was snorkeling off the coast of Sicily, in search of seafood, he was startled to see a half-frozen octopus splash into the water beside him. His host, a deeply tanned, eager-to-please Sicilian, was dropping fish onto the seabed for him to “discover” on camera. Naturally, this violated Bourdain’s dogma of verité. He was outraged, but decided to incorporate the moment into the episode, to hilarious effect. (“I’m no marine biologist, but I know a dead octopus when I see one.”)

“I don’t know anybody who is more a man of the twenty-first century,”  Alan Richman, the food critic, says of Bourdain. “The way he acts. The way he speaks. His insanity. His vulgarity.”

In Beirut, there was no way to edit around the war. But Bourdain and his producers felt that they had a story to tell, and they put together a show about being stranded by the conflict. In the episode, viewers see Bourdain’s cameramen worrying about getting home, and the local fixers and producers worrying about the safety of loved ones. At one point in the narration, Bourdain says, “This is not the show we went to Lebanon to get.” Until he travelled to Beirut, wherever he had ventured, no matter how bleak, he had always ended the episode with a voice-over that was, if not upbeat, at least hopeful. At the conclusion of the Beirut episode, he said, “Look at us in these scenes. . . . We’re sitting around in bathing suits, getting tanned, watching a war. If there’s a single metaphor in this entire experience, you know, that’s probably it.” Darren Aronofsky describes Bourdain’s show as a form of “personal journalism,” in the tradition of Ross McElwee’s 1985 documentary, “Sherman’s March,” in which a story is pointedly filtered through the individual experience of the filmmaker. In Beirut, at a beach where a line of people stood clutching their belongings, Bourdain and his crew were ushered by U.S. Marines onto a crowded American warship.

At the time, Bourdain was in a new relationship. Éric Ripert had recently set him up with a young Italian woman named Ottavia Busia, who was a hostess at one of Ripert’s restaurants. She and Bourdain both worked incessantly, but Ripert figured that they might find time to enjoy a one-night stand. On their second date, Busia and Bourdain got matching tattoos of a chef’s knife. Eight months later, Bourdain returned, shaken, from Beirut, and they talked about having children. “Let’s spin the wheel,” Busia told him, adding, dubiously, “Your sperm is old, anyway.” Their daughter, Ariane, was born in April, 2007, and they were married eleven days later.

Busia is also a jujitsu fanatic, and, when I contacted her, she suggested that we meet at the school where she and Bourdain train, not far from Penn Station. “I’m here every day,” she said. Busia is thirty-eight, with big brown eyes, a warm, toothy grin, and the dense, bunched-up shoulders of a gym rat. She sat cross-legged on a mat, wearing a black T-shirt that said, “In Jujitsu We Trust,” and leggings that were decorated with cat faces. Busia first tried martial arts after giving birth, hoping to lose some weight, but she soon became consumed by jujitsu, and induced Bourdain to take a private lesson. (She bribed him, she maintains, with a Vicodin.) “I knew he was going to like the problem-solving aspect of it,” she told me. “It’s a very intellectual sport.”

Years ago, while filming an episode in Rajasthan, Bourdain met a fortune-teller who told him that one day he would become a father. “That guy’s full of fucking shit,” Bourdain told one of the producers afterward. “I would be a horrible father.” But Ariane is, by her parents’ accounts, a well-adjusted kid. For a time, Busia brought her along on some of Bourdain’s journeys, but when Ariane started elementary school that became impractical. Once, Busia was startled awake in the middle of the night with the horrifying realization that a strange man was in her bed. Then she rolled over and remembered that it was just Tony; she had forgotten that he was home. (Last year, Bourdain spent only about twenty weeks in New York.) Now that Busia is in peak physical condition, she is hoping to climb Mt. Everest. Last summer, Bourdain told me that she was sleeping in a hypoxia chamber—a device that mimics the oxygen depletion of high altitudes. “It basically re-creates thirty-two thousand feet,” he said, then shrugged. “Anyway, nobody’s sitting at home waiting for me to define them.”

When I asked about fatherhood, Bourdain grew reflective. “I’m shocked by how happy my daughter is,” he said. “I don’t think I’m deluding myself. I know I’m a loving father.” He paused. “Do I wish sometimes that, in an alternative universe, I could be the patriarch, always there? Tons of kids? Grandkids running around? Yes. And it looks good to me. But I’m pretty sure I’m incapable of it.”

Perhaps the most beautiful thing that Bourdain has written is a 2010 essay called “My Aim Is True,” which is a profile of Justo Thomas, a fastidious middle-aged man from the Dominican Republic, who descends early each morning to the basement beneath Le Bernardin, where he prepares a series of sharp knives, and then, with the precision of a heart surgeon, disassembles seven hundred pounds of fresh fish. The fish come to the restaurant, Thomas says, “the way they catch,” which, Bourdain explains, means whole, straight from the ocean—“shiny, clear-eyed, pink-gilled, still stiff with rigor, and smelling of nothing but seawater.” It is Thomas’s job to break each carcass down into delicate cuts that will be served upstairs, and the essay is a warm tribute to him and to the details of his largely invisible craft. (“The walls, curiously, have been carefully covered with fresh plastic cling wrap—like a serial killer would prepare his basement—to catch flying fish scales and for faster, easier cleanup.”) By the time Thomas completes his shift, it is noon, and Bourdain invites him to have lunch in the dining room. In six years of working at Le Bernardin, Thomas has never eaten there as a guest. Bourdain gestures toward the patrons around them, and notes that some of them will spend on a bottle of wine what Thomas might make in a couple of months. “I think in life they give too much to some people and nothing to everybody else,” Thomas tells him. But, he adds, “without work, we are nothing.”

In Bourdain’s estimation, writing is a less gruelling art than cooking. “I think I’ve always looked at everybody I met through the prism of the kitchen,” he told me at one point. “ ‘O.K., you wrote a good book, but can you handle a brunch shift?’ ” Writing is ephemeral, he said. More ephemeral than brunch? I asked. “Three hundred brunches, nothing came back,” he said, his voice hardening with the steely conviction of a combat veteran. “Three hundred eggs Benedict. Not one returned. It’s mechanical precision. Endurance. Character. That’s real.”

Bourdain has eaten some appalling things—bear bile in Vietnam, bull’s-penis soup in Malaysia, the unwashed rectum of a warthog in Namibia—but he is careful to distance himself from any suggestion that he trucks in gag-reflex entertainment.
Bourdain has eaten some appalling things—bear bile in Vietnam, bull’s-penis soup in Malaysia, the unwashed rectum of a warthog in Namibia—but he is careful to distance himself from any suggestion that he trucks in gag-reflex entertainment.
When Bourdain tells his own story, he often makes it sound as if literary success were something that he stumbled into; in fact, he spent years trying to write his way out of the kitchen. In 1985, he began sending unsolicited manuscripts to Joel Rose, who was then editing a downtown literary journal, Between C & D. “To put it to you quite simply, my lust for print knows no bounds,” Bourdain wrote, in the cover letter for a submission of cartoons and short stories, noting, “Though I do not reside on the Lower East, I have in the recent past enjoyed an intimate though debilitating familiarity with its points of interest.” Rose eventually published a story by Bourdain, about a young chef who tries to score heroin but is turned away, because he has no fresh track marks. (“There’s tracks there! They just old is all cause I been on the program!”)

Bourdain bought his first bag of heroin on Rivington Street in 1980, and plunged into addiction with his usual gusto. “When I started getting symptoms of withdrawal, I was proud of myself,” he told me. Addiction, like the kitchen, was a marginal subculture with its own rules and aesthetics. For Bourdain, an admirer of William S. Burroughs, heroin held a special allure. In 1980, he says, he copped every day. But eventually he grew disenchanted with the addict’s life, because he hated being at the mercy of others. “Getting ripped off, running from the cops,” he recalled. “I’m a vain person. I didn’t like what I saw in the mirror.” Bourdain ended up on methadone, but he resented the indignities of the regimen: being unable to leave town without permission, waiting in line to pee in a cup. He quit cold turkey, around 1987, but spent several more years addicted to cocaine. “I just bottomed out on crack,” he recalled. Occasionally, between fixes, he would find himself digging paint chips out of the carpet in his apartment and smoking them, on the off chance that they were pebbles of crack. Things grew so bad that Bourdain recalls once sitting on a blanket on Broadway at Christmastime, with his beloved record collection laid out for sale.

Given Bourdain’s braggadocio, there were times when I wondered if the bad years were quite as grim as he makes them sound. “There are romantics, and then there are the hard-core addicts,” Karen Rinaldi said. “I think Tony was more of a romantic.” Nancy Putkoski told me in an e-mail that Tony is “pretty dramatic.” She wrote, “It does look pretty bleak in the rearview mirror. But, when you’re living it, it’s just your life. You struggle through.” Once, Bourdain was riding in a taxi with three friends, having just scored heroin on the Lower East Side. He announced that he had recently read an article about the statistical likelihood of getting off drugs. “Only one in four has a chance at making it,” he said. An awkward silence ensued. Years later, in “Kitchen Confidential,” Bourdain pointed out that he made it and his friends had not. “I was the guy.”

After getting clean, around 1990, Bourdain signed up for a writing workshop led by the editor Gordon Lish. “He took it very seriously,” Putkoski told me. In letters to Joel Rose, Bourdain referred to the workshop as a transformative experience, and talked about “life after Lish.” (When I reached Lish by phone, he recalled Bourdain as “an altogether charming fellow, very tall,” but he had no recollection of Bourdain’s writing.)

Through a college friend, Bourdain met an editor at Random House, who gave him a small advance to write a crime novel set in the restaurant world. Writing had always come easily to Bourdain; at Vassar, he wrote term papers for classmates in exchange for drugs. He didn’t agonize over the novel, he said: “I didn’t have time.” Every day, he rose before dawn and banged out a new passage at his computer, chain-smoking, then worked a twelve-hour restaurant shift. The novel, “Bone in the Throat,” was published in 1995. (“Two-hundred-and-eighty-pound Salvatore Pitera, in a powder-blue jogging suit and tinted aviator glasses, stepped out of Franks Original Pizza onto Spring Street. He had a slice of pizza in one hand, too hot to eat.”) Bourdain paid for his own book tour, and recalls sitting behind a table at a Barnes & Noble in Northridge, California, with a stack of his books, as people walked by, avoiding eye contact. That novel and a follow-up, “Gone Bamboo,” quickly went out of print. (They have since been reissued.)

In 1998, Les Halles opened a Tokyo branch, and one of the owners, Philippe Lajaunie, asked Bourdain to spend a week there, mentoring the staff. Bourdain fretted over how he’d survive the thirteen-hour flight without a cigarette, but once he landed in Tokyo he was exhilarated. “This place is like ‘Blade Runner,’ ” he wrote to Joel Rose, in an e-mail. “I’m speaking French, hearing Japanese, and thinking English all while still horribly jet-lagged, crazed on iced sushi, jacked up on fugu, and just fucking dazzled by it all.” He described the thrill of walking into the most uninviting, foreign-seeming, crowded restaurant he could find, pointing at a diner who appeared to have ordered something good, and saying, “Gimme that!”

Rose had recently had a child with Rinaldi, the book editor. He showed her the e-mails, and Rinaldi was impressed by Bourdain’s bawdy vernacular. “Do you think he has a book in him?” she asked.

“You have no idea,” Rose said.

Writing may have long been part of Bourdain’s plan, but TV, according to Putkoski, “was never really in the picture until it was offered.” Shortly after “Kitchen Confidential” was published, Lydia Tenaglia and Chris Collins started talking with Bourdain about making a show. He told them that he was planning a follow-up book in which he travelled around the world, eating. If they wanted to pay to follow him with cameras, why not?

When he meets someone at a roadside café, he wears a lavalier microphone, which picks up the sort of ambient noise that sound designers normally filter out.
When he meets someone at a roadside café, he wears a lavalier microphone, which picks up the sort of ambient noise that sound designers normally filter out.
Putkoski was less enthused. “She identified television early on as an existential threat to the marriage,” Bourdain said. “I felt like the whole world was opening up to me. I’d seen things. I’d smelled things. I desperately wanted more. And she saw the whole thing as a cancer.” If you watch episodes of “A Cook’s Tour,” you can sometimes spot Putkoski hovering at the edge of the frame. She had no desire to be on camera. She told me recently that her ideal degree of fame would be that of a Supreme Court Justice: “Almost nobody knows what you look like, but you always get the reservation you want.”

For a time, Bourdain tried to save the marriage. He remodelled their apartment with the extra money he was making. But it didn’t work. “I was ambitious, she was not,” he said. “I have a rampaging curiosity about things, and she was content, I think, to be with me. To go to the Caribbean once a year. There were things that I wanted, and I was willing to really hurt somebody to have them.” Bourdain describes his separation from Putkoski as “the great betrayal” of his life.

In an e-mail, Putkoski wrote to me, “I’m big on shared experiences, which I’d thought had bulletproofed our partnership. . . . We’d been through an awful lot of stuff together, a lot of it not so great, a lot of it wonderful fun.” She concluded, “I just didn’t anticipate how tricky success would be.”

Outside the beer hall in Hanoi, under a tree festooned with Christmas lights, a stout elderly woman in billowy striped pants presided, with a cleaver, over a little stand that served roasted dog. Bourdain was relaxing nearby with Dinh Hoang Linh, a sweet-tempered Vietnamese bureaucrat who has been a close friend of his since 2000, when Linh was Bourdain’s government minder on his first trip to Hanoi. Over the years, the recipe for Bourdain’s show has subtly changed. When he first went to Asia, he joked that he was going to eat “monkey brains and poisonous blowfish gizzards.” At a restaurant in Vietnam called Flavors of the Forest, he was treated to a delicacy in which the proprietor grabs a writhing cobra, unzips its belly with a pair of scissors, yanks out its still beating heart, and drops it into a small ceramic bowl. “Cheers,” Bourdain said, before knocking it back like an oyster. If, in subsequent seasons, Bourdain has eaten some other appalling things—bear bile in Vietnam, bull’s-penis soup in Malaysia, the unwashed rectum of a warthog in Namibia—he is careful to distance himself from any suggestion that he trucks in gag-reflex entertainment. When he was getting started, a degree of sensationalism was “exactly the cost of doing business,” he told me, adding, “I’m not going to sneer at it. Whatever gets you across the river.” (He noted, diplomatically, that the Travel Channel currently has a show, “Bizarre Foods,” devoted to that kind of thing.)

He has never eaten dog. When I pointed out the dog-hawker in our midst, he said, “I’m not doing it just because it’s there anymore.” Now, when he’s presented with such offerings, his first question is whether it is a regular feature of the culture. “Had I found myself as the unwitting guest of honor in a farmhouse on the Mekong Delta where a family, unbeknownst to me, has prepared their very best, and I’m the guest of honor, and all of the neighbors are watching . . . I’m going to eat the fucking dog,” he said. “On the hierarchy of offenses, offending my host—often a very poor one, who is giving me the very best, and for whom face is very important in the community—for me to refuse would be embarrassing. So I will eat the dog.”

Bourdain has softened in other ways. Although he still baits the food press with a steady stream of headline-ready provocations—“Anthony Bourdain: Airplane Food and Room Service Are Crimes”; “Anthony Bourdain Wishes Death Upon the Pumpkin-Spice Craze”; “Anthony Bourdain on Dining with Trump: Absolutely F*cking Not”—he often makes peace with people to whom he has taken a blowtorch in the past. In “Kitchen Confidential,” he relentlessly pilloried the TV chef Emeril Lagasse, noting several times his resemblance to an Ewok. Then they met, Bourdain ate Lagasse’s food, and eventually he took it all back and apologized. Lajaunie, the former Les Halles owner, said of Bourdain, “He’s extremely kind, but it’s the genuine kindness that comes from deep cynicism.” Lajaunie went on, “He has accepted that everyone has broken springs here and there. That’s what most of us lack—the acceptance that others are as broken as we are.” After Bourdain read “How to Live,” Sarah Bakewell’s 2010 book about Michel de Montaigne, he got a tattoo on his forearm of Montaigne’s motto, in ancient Greek: “I suspend judgment.”

Even Alan Richman, the GQ critic, whose snobbery Bourdain once savaged in an essay entitled “Alan Richman Is a Douchebag,” has become a sort of friend. When Bourdain was writing for “Treme,” he concocted a scene in which a character named Alan Richman visits a restaurant in New Orleans and has a Sazerac thrown in his face. He invited Richman to play himself, and Richman did.


Bourdain is exceptionally close to his crew members, in part because they are steady companions in a life that is otherwise transient. “I change location every two weeks,” he told me. “I’m not going to remember your birthday.”
Bourdain is exceptionally close to his crew members, in part because they are steady companions in a life that is otherwise transient. “I change location every two weeks,” he told me. “I’m not going to remember your birthday.”
In an era of fast-casual dining, Richman pointed out, the “roughneck” cuisine that Bourdain celebrates has enormous appeal. Bourdain has helped create the circumstances in which one of the most widely praised restaurants in New York City is the Spotted Pig, April Bloomfield’s West Village gastropub, which is known for its unfussy cheeseburgers. To the degree that one can extrapolate from the personal quarrel between Richman and Bourdain a larger philosophical debate about the proper future of American tastes, Richman readily concedes defeat. “I don’t know anybody who is more a man of the twenty-first century,” Richman told me. “The way he acts. The way he speaks. His insanity. His vulgarity.”

As “Parts Unknown” has evolved, it has become less preoccupied with food and more concerned with the sociology and geopolitics of the places Bourdain visits. Lydia Tenaglia calls the show an “anthropological enterprise.” Increasingly, Chris Collins told me, the mandate is: “Don’t tell me what you ate. Tell me who you ate with.” Bourdain, in turn, has pushed for less footage of him eating and more “B roll” of daily life in the countries he visits. It has become a mantra for him, Collins said: “More ‘B,’ less me.”

Since visiting Beirut, Bourdain has gone on to Libya, Gaza, and the Democratic Republic of Congo, seeking to capture how people go about their daily lives amid violent conflict. To viewers who complain that the show has become too focussed on politics, Bourdain responds that food is politics: most cuisines reflect an amalgamation of influences and tell a story of migration and conquest, each flavor representing a sedimentary layer of history. He also points out that most shows about food are premised on a level of abundance that is unfamiliar in many parts of the world.

The program’s shift in tone coincided, fortuitously, with the move to CNN. In 2012, the network was struggling with a dilemma that is common to cable news. “Big events happen in the world and viewers flock to you in droves, and as soon as the event is over they disappear,” Amy Entelis, an executive vice-president at CNN, told me. The network wanted to create “appointment viewing”: original shows that audiences would seek out week after week. “Tony’s name came up right away,” Entelis said. It has been a happy arrangement: the network gives Bourdain ample resources and near-total creative freedom. “I’ve never gotten the stupid phone call,” he said. The show has been a ratings success, and it has won five Emmys and a Peabody Award. Eerily, one of the highest-rated episodes of “Parts Unknown” aired soon after the 2013 Boston Marathon bombing. It was an episode about Los Angeles, which Bourdain had shot exclusively in Koreatown, and it’s great, but nobody believes that this accounts for the ratings. Millions of people had followed the manhunt, and the devastating aftermath of the attack, on CNN. By Sunday, they needed a break.

Bourdain is comfortable being seen as a purveyor of escapism; he is less comfortable with the responsibility that attends the show’s more serious material. In an episode set in Laos, he ate freshwater fish and bamboo shoots with a man who had lost an arm and a leg when a U.S. explosive, left over from the war, detonated. In Hanoi, one of Obama’s staffers told him that, until the episode aired, some people in the White House had been unaware of the extent of the unexploded-ordnance problem in Laos. “Very casually, he said, ‘So I guess you do some good after all,’ ” Bourdain recalled. “I’m a little embarrassed. I feel like Bono. I don’t want to be that guy. The show is always about me. I would be bullshitting you if I said I was on some mission. I’m not.”

Nevertheless, Bourdain knows that most viewers who caught his Congo episode had read little about the conflicts there. I was reminded of how Jon Stewart, whenever someone observed that many young people got their news from “The Daily Show,” protested, unpersuasively, that he was just a comedian cracking jokes. Bourdain’s publisher, Dan Halpern, said, “Whether he likes it or not, he’s become a statesman.”

Bourdain insists that this is not the case. “I’m not going to the White House Correspondents’ dinner,” he said. “I don’t need to be laughing it up with Henry Kissinger.” He then launched into a tirade about how it sickens him, having travelled in Southeast Asia, to see Kissinger embraced by the power-lunch crowd. “Any journalist who has ever been polite to Henry Kissinger, you know, fuck that person,” he said, his indignation rising. “I’m a big believer in moral gray areas, but, when it comes to that guy, in my view he should not be able to eat at a restaurant in New York.”

I pointed out that Bourdain had made similarly categorical denunciations of many people, only to bury the hatchet and join them for dinner.

“Emeril didn’t bomb Cambodia!” he said.

Guiding President Obama through a meal, Bourdain declared, “Slurping is totally acceptable in this part of the world.”
Guiding President Obama through a meal, Bourdain declared, “Slurping is totally acceptable in this part of the world.”
One morning in August, I got an e-mail from Bourdain letting me know that he and Busia were separating. “It’s not much of a change of life style, as we have lived separate lives for many years,” he wrote. “More of a change of address.” Bourdain felt some relief, he told me: he and Busia no longer needed to “pretend.” In our conversations up to that point, he had celebrated the fact that Busia pursued jujitsu and her other interests in the same headlong manner in which he pursued his. But in the e-mail he wrote, “She’s an interesting woman. I admire her choices. But I married Sophia Loren. She turned into Jean-Claude Van Damme.” (I learned subsequently that this was a standing joke between Bourdain and Busia, and not intended harshly.) Bourdain added that he was about to promote a new “family cookbook,” called “Appetites,” which would “lead to some awkward interviews.”

Chris Bourdain told me that, when Anthony first became famous, his attitude was: “I have no idea how long this is going to go on, so I want to max it out while I can.” Whenever a new opportunity presented itself, he said yes. By the time Bourdain met Busia, he had achieved a level of recognition and wealth that might have enabled him to slow down. But he didn’t stop moving. “Parts Unknown” films two seasons a year. Even first-class travel can be punishing after a while, and Bourdain acknowledges that although he may still behave like a young man, he isn’t one. “I think you’re officially old at sixty, right?” he told me, soon after his birthday. “The car starts falling apart.” However, TV stars forge bonds with their audience through habitual exposure, and it can feel risky to take a break. “It’s a bit like ‘Poltergeist,’ ” Nigella Lawson, who was Bourdain’s co-host on “The Taste,” told me. “You get sucked into the TV and you can never get out.”

At this point, Éric Ripert observed, Bourdain’s show has “done the entire planet already!” Now, Bourdain says, the pleasure of making “Parts Unknown” lies in revisiting places to see how they’ve changed—Cuba five years ago is a different country from Cuba today—or in returning to a place with a fresh perspective. For a recent episode on Houston, Bourdain decided that he wanted “no white people,” and provided instead a look at the city “as a Vietnamese and Central American and African and Indian place.” Chris Collins suggested to me that the perpetual discontinuity of Bourdain’s life may have assumed a continuity of its own, as if jet lag were his natural condition. “I’ve often thought, How would he ever go on without the show?” Lydia Tenaglia said. “It is such an inextricable part of him—who is Tony, apart from this?”

For years, Bourdain has had a recurring dream in which he finds himself in a Victorian-era hotel, wandering through well-appointed hallways, unable to find the front desk. A year ago, when I asked him how long he would stick with the show, he said, “Until it’s not fun.” In September, I posed the same question at a sushi restaurant in Manhattan, and this time he was more contemplative. “I have the best job in the world,” he said. “If I’m unhappy, it’s a failure of imagination.” He was delighted with the Vietnam episode, which was about to air. CNN had wanted to lead with the Obama meeting, but Bourdain, ever one to play it casual, waited until nearly forty minutes into the episode to introduce the President. He got the James Brown song he wanted. (“I may have fibbed and told the network that I promised the President personally that we would get that for his walk-on music.”)

After the Vietnam trip, Bourdain had competed in a jujitsu tournament, in Manhattan, and had been defeated by a strongman who wrenched his head with such ferocity that he thought his fillings might pop. As an added indignity, Bourdain came away from the tournament with a skin infection that left him looking, he says, “like Quasimodo.” (Ripert is puzzled by jujitsu: “It’s supposed to be good for the body, but he seems to be in pain all the time.”)

In a fit of self-exile, Bourdain flew to France and made his way, alone, to the village in Normandy that he had visited as a child. He had rented a big villa, with the intention of doing some writing. Bourdain cherishes the trope of the misanthropic émigré. “To me, ‘The Quiet American’ was a happy book, because Fowler ends up in Vietnam, smoking opium with a beautiful Vietnamese girl who may not have loved him,” he told me.

But in Normandy he found that he couldn’t write. His body was itchy and swollen from the rash, and he had a throbbing pain in his head. Because he looked hideous, he left the villa only after dark, like a vampire. Finally, Bourdain sought out a French doctor, who gave him a battery of painkillers and anti-inflammatories. After impulsively swallowing a week’s supply, Bourdain realized that he had not eaten in thirty-six hours. He drove to a café in a nearby town, Arachon, and ordered spaghetti and a bottle of Chianti. He was halfway through the wine when he realized that he was sweating through his clothes. Then he blacked out.

Bourdain is an evangelist for street food, and Hanoi excels at open-air cooking.
Bourdain is an evangelist for street food, and Hanoi excels at open-air cooking.
When he woke up, Bourdain was lying with his feet in the café and his head in the street. A waiter was rifling through his pockets, in search of a driver’s license, as if to identify a corpse. Bourdain’s father had died suddenly, at fifty-seven, from a stroke, and Bourdain often thinks about dying; more than once, he told me that, if he got “a bad chest X-ray,” he would happily renew his acquaintance with heroin. Taking meds and booze on an empty stomach was just a foolish mistake, but it left him shaken. He stood up, reassured the startled onlookers, drove back to the villa, and immediately wrote a long e-mail to Nancy Putkoski.

When I asked him what he wrote, Bourdain paused and said, “The sort of thing you write if you, you know, thought you were going to die. ‘I’m fucking sorry. I’m sure I’ve acted like I wasn’t.’ We’ve had very little contact—you know, civil, but very, very little. ‘I’m sorry. I know that doesn’t help. It won’t fix it, there’s no making amends. But it’s not like I don’t remember. It’s not like I don’t know what I’ve done.’ ”

Anthropologists like to say that to observe a culture is usually, in some small way, to change it. A similar dictum holds true for Bourdain’s show. Whenever Bourdain discovers a hole-in-the-wall culinary gem, he places it on the tourist map, thereby leaching it of the authenticity that drew him to it in the first place. “It’s a gloriously doomed enterprise,” he acknowledged. “I’m in the business of finding great places, and then we fuck them up.”

For the restaurant that welcomes Bourdain and his crew, there are conspicuous upsides to this phenomenon. Our food at the sushi place was middling; Bourdain avoided the fish and ordered chicken katsu, most of which he left uneaten. As we were leaving, Bourdain amiably obliged the owner’s request for a selfie, and I witnessed a comically subtle tango, as she maneuvered his body so that the photo would capture the restaurant’s sign (creating an implicit endorsement) and Bourdain gently swivelled her the other way, so that the backdrop would be Third Avenue instead.

In Hanoi, a few days after Bourdain’s dinner with Obama, I mentioned that I was going to swing by the Bún-chả restaurant. As if recalling a bygone establishment, Bourdain murmured dreamily, “I wonder what it’s like now.”

I chuckled at this, but when I visited the next day the restaurant had indeed changed. A sign outside said, in Vietnamese, “we have no more bún chả!,” and gawkers loitered around the entrance. In the kitchen, the woman who runs the restaurant, Nguyên Thi Liên, was smiling, perspiring, and clearly overwhelmed. Her family had owned the place for decades. She told me that Hanoi kids had been stopping by at night, long past closing, to have their picture taken.

One evening in Vietnam, Bourdain finished a shoot outside a noodle shop, and loped over to the other side of the street, where I was sitting. “Want to go for a ride?” he asked. The crew had rented him a blue Vespa, and Bourdain told me that the only way to see Hanoi was on the back of a scooter: “To be anonymous, another helmeted figure in the middle of a million little dramas and comedies happening on a million bikes moving through this amazing city—every second is pure joy.” I climbed on behind him. “I’ve only got one helmet,” he said, handing it to me. I had scarcely strapped it on when he hit the gas and we were swept up in a surging river of vehicles. “I love this!” he shouted over his shoulder, picking up speed. “The smells! The traffic!” We shot through a perfumed cloud of smoke from a cookfire. Bourdain swerved to avoid an oncoming truck, and almost hit a woman on a scooter with a bale of green vegetables balanced precariously on the back. As we veered into a gutter, without breaking speed, it occurred to me that this would, at any rate, be a memorable way to die. Bourdain slowed down to ask a pedestrian for directions, and the man indicated that, to reach the Metropole Hotel, we should hang a left around Hoàn Kiếm Lake. But when we reached the lake—a tree-lined oasis with a tiny island in the center—Bourdain said, “Let’s go this way,” and turned right. Clutching my seat as we zoomed into another congested avenue, I realized that Bourdain had deliberately taken a wrong turn. He was courting uncertainty, trying to get lost.

The next morning, I met Bourdain in the lobby of the Metropole, and we drove to the outskirts of the city. He can hit the ground anywhere in the world, from Kathmandu to Kiev, and find a gym where people train in Brazilian jujitsu. “Everywhere you go, the etiquette is the same,” he said. “We bump fists, then we try to kill each other for five minutes.”

One conspicuous hazard of being Anthony Bourdain is that everywhere he goes, from a Michelin-starred temple to a peasant hut on the tundra, he is mercilessly inundated with food. He often ends up eating much more than he might like to.
One conspicuous hazard of being Anthony Bourdain is that everywhere he goes, from a Michelin-starred temple to a peasant hut on the tundra, he is mercilessly inundated with food. He often ends up eating much more than he might like to.
On the second floor of a local athletic complex, we found a mirrored, padded room that served as a jujitsu gym. Bourdain changed into a white terry-cloth gi, strapped on his blue belt, and greeted several much younger Vietnamese guys. He sparred with each man in a five-minute round. Bourdain had explained to me the complex protocols of jujitsu—describing how a blue belt can ask a white belt to spar, and a black belt can ask a blue belt, but a white belt can’t ask a blue belt. He had always loved the kitchen because it was a tribe, and in jujitsu he had found another sweaty, gruelling activity with its own hierarchy and lingo, a vocabulary of signs and symbols that would be impossible for an outsider to understand. I watched Bourdain, with his limbs tangled around the body of a Vietnamese blue belt who was roughly half his age, his toes splayed, his eyes bulging, his fingers grasping for purchase on the guy’s lapel. In the heat of the clench, they whispered playful banter to each other; there was something intimate about it, like pillow talk. Then, abruptly, Bourdain flipped the guy’s body over, pinning one of his arms and bending his elbow at an unnatural angle. The guy gently tapped Bourdain’s shoulder, and Bourdain released the grip. They uncoupled and lolled on the floor for a second, like a pair of dead men. Then Bourdain looked up at the time clock. There was still nearly a minute left in the five-minute round. He rolled onto his knees, bumped fists with his opponent, and started again. ♦


Patrick Radden Keefe, a staff writer, has been contributing to The New Yorker since 2006.